Тексти шкільної літератури
Іспанія. Zalacaín de un aventurero
(Historia de las buenas andanzas y fortunas de Martín Zalacaín el Aventurero)
MADRID.—1919. PRÓLOGO
CÓMO ERA LA VILLA DE URBIA EN EL ÚLTIMO TERCIO DEL SIGLO XIX
Una muralla de piedra, negruzca y alta rodea a Urbia. Esta muralla siguea lo largo del camino real, limita el
pueblo por el Norte y al llegar alrío se tuerce, tropieza con la iglesia, a la que coge, dejando parte delábside
fuera de su recinto, y después escala una altura y envuelve laciudad por el Sur.
Hay todavía, en los fosos, terrenos encharcados con hierbajos yespadañas, poternas llenas de hierros,
garitas desmochadas, escalerillasmusgosas, y alrededor, en los glacis, altas y románticas arboledas,malezas
y boscajes y verdes praderas salpicadas de florecillas. Cerca,en la aguda colina a cuyo pie se sienta el
pueblo, un castillo sombríose oculta entre gigantescos olmos.
Desde el camino real, Urbia aparece como una agrupación de casasdecrépitas, leprosas, inclinadas, con balcones corridos de madera ymiradores que asoman por encima de la negra pared de piedra que lascircunda.
Tiene Urbia una barriada vieja y otra nueva. La barriada vieja, la calle
, como se le llama por antonomasia en vascuence, está formada,principalmente, por dos callejuelas estrechas, sinuosas y en cuesta quese unen en la plaza.
El pueblo viejo, desde la carretera, traza una línea quebrada de tejadostorcidos y mugrientos, que va descendiendo desde el Castillo hasta elrío. Las casas, encaramadas en la cintura de piedra de la ciudad, parecea primera vista que se encuentran en una posición estrecha é incómoda,pero no es así, sino todo lo contrario, porque, entre el pie de lascasas y los muros fortificados, existe un gran espacio ocupado por unaserie de magníficas huertas. Tales huertas, protegidas de los vientosfríos, son excelentes. En ellas se pueden cultivar plantas de zonacálida como naranjos y limoneros.
La muralla, por la parte interior que da a las huertas, tiene un caminoformado por grandes losas, especie de acera de un metro de ancho con subarandado de hierro.
En los intersticios de estas losas viejas, y desgastadas por laslluvias, crecen la venenosa cicuta y el beleño; junto a las paredesbrillan, en la primavera, las flores amarillentas del diente del león ydel verbasco, los
gladiolos de hermoso color carmesí y las digitalespurpúreas. Otros muchos hierbajos, mezclados con ortigas y amapolas, seextienden por la muralla y adornan con su verdura y con susconstelaciones de flores pequeñas y simples las almenas, las aspillerasy los matacanes.
Durante el invierno, en las horas de sol, algunos viejos de la vecindad,con traje de casa y zapatillas, pasean por la cornisa, y al llegar Marzoo Abril contemplan los progresos de los hermosos perales y melocotonerosde las huertas.
Observan también, disimuladamente, por las aspilleras, si viene algúncoche o carro al pueblo, si hay novedades en las casas de la barriadanueva, no sin cierta hostilidad, porque todos los habitantes delinterior sienten una obscura y mal explicada antipatía por susconvecinos de extra-muros. La cintura de piedra del pueblo viejo se abre en unos sitios por puertasojivales; en otros se rompe irregularmente, dejando un boquete que pordías se ve agrandarse.
En algunas de las puertas, debajo, de la ojiva primitiva, se hizoposteriormente, no se sabe con qué objeto, un arco de medio punto.
En las piedras de las jambas quedan empotrados hierros que sirvieronpara las poternas. Los puentes levadizos están substituídos por montonesde tierra que rellenan el foso hasta la necesaria altura. Urbia ofrece aspectos varios según el sitio de donde se le contemple;desde lejos y viniendo desde la carretera, sobre todo al anochecer,tiene la apariencia de un castillo feudal; la ciudadela sombría,envuelta entre grandes árboles, prolongada después por el pueblo con susmuros fortificados que chorrean agua, presentan un aspecto grave yguerrero; en cambio, desde el puente y un día de sol, Urbia no daninguna impresión fosca, por el contrario, parece una diminutaFlorencia, asentada en las orillas de un riachuelo claro, pedregoso,murmurador y de rápida corriente.
Las dos filas de casas bañadas por el río son casas viejas con galeríasy miradores negruzcos, en los cuales cuelgan ropas puestas a secar,ristras de ajos y de pimientos. Estas galerías tienen en un extremo unapolea y un cubo para subir agua. Al finalizar las casas, siguiendo lasorillas del río, hay algunos huertos, por cuyas tapias verdosas surgencipreses altos, delgados y espirituales, lo que da a este rincón unmayor aspecto florentino.
Urbia intra-muros se acaba pronto; fuera de las dos calles largas, solotiene callejones húmedos y estrechos y la plaza. Esta es una encrucijadalóbrega, constituida por una pared de la iglesia con varias rejastapiadas, por la Casa del Ayuntamiento con sus balcones volados y sugran portón coronado por el escudo de la villa, y por un caserón enormeen cuyo bajo se halla instalado el almacén de Azpillaga. El almacén de Azpillaga, donde se encuentra de todo, debe dar a losaldeanos la impresión de una caja de Pandora, de un mundo inexplorado ylleno de maravillas. A la puerta de casa de Azpillaga, colgando de lasnegras paredes, suelen verse chisteras para jugar a la pelota, albardas,jáquimas, monturas de estilo andaluz; y en las ventanas, que hacen deescaparate frascos con caramelos de color, aparejos complicados depesca, con su corcho rojo y sus cañas, redes sujetas a un mango, marcosde hojadelata, santos de yeso y de latón y estampas viejas, sucias porlas moscas.
En el interior hay ropas, mantas, lanas, jamón, botellas de Chartreusefalsificado, loza fina... El Museo Británico no es nada, en variedad, allado de este almacén.
A la puerta suele pasearse Azpillaga, grueso, majestuoso, con su aireclerical, unas mangas azules y su boina. Las dos calles principales deUrbia son estrechas, tortuosas y en cuesta. La mayoría de los vecinos deesas dos calles son labradores, alpargateros y carpinteros de carros.Los labradores, por la mañana, salen al campo con sus yuntas. Aldespertar el pueblo, al amanecer, se oyen los mugidos de los bueyes;luego, los alpargateros sacan su banco a la acera, y los carpinterostrabajan en medio de la calle en compañía de los chiquillos, de lasgallinas y de los perros.
Algunas de las casas de las dos calles principales muestran su escudo,otras, sentencias escritas en latín, y la generalidad, un número, lafecha en que se hicieron y el nombre del matrimonio que las mandóconstruir. Hoy, el pueblo lo forma casi exclusivamente la parte nueva, limpia,coquetona, un poco presuntuosa. El verano cruzan la carretera un sin finde automóviles y casi todos se paran un momento en la casa de Ohando,convertido en Gran Hotel de Urbia. Algunas señoritas, apasionadas por lopintoresco, mientras el grueso papá escribe postales en el hotel, subenlas escaleras del portal de la Antigua, recorren las dos callesprincipales de la ciudad y sacan fotografías de los rincones que lesparecen románticos y de los grupos de alpargateros que se dejan retratarsonriendo burlonamente.
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